Gearbest Banner

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - LPfan4ever

Pages: [1] 2
1
Epic Deals / Battleborn, add-ons, and Borderland Pre-Sequel for $15
« on: July 26, 2016, 03:32:34 PM »
Title says it all. Don't think I've seen a cheaper price for just Battleborn, let alone this big bundle.

https://www.humblebundle.com/2k-games-bundle

2
Custom / Project Downsize
« on: January 23, 2016, 07:28:38 PM »
As a few of you know, I'm running a massive CM Cosmos II. As much as the case is nice to look at it's just way too big for me. I struggle to get it up the stairs to clean it, therefore it rarely gets cleaned. With a smaller case comes smaller parts, and a nice (crazy) upgrade. Hopefully I'll get my AMD parts back from my brother real soon so I can move the storage drives into another HTPC rig.

My current build is as follows:
Quote
Case: Cooler Master Cosmos II
CPU: 3770k @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth Z77
RAM: Kingston HyperX Blu Black Series (2x 8GB)
PSU: Kingwin Lazer 1000W
GPU: Asus R9 290X
Sound Card: Auzentech Forte
Storage:
2x Corsair Force GS 240GB in RAID0
Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 120GB for Photoshop and Lightroom
2x Hitachi 5k3000 2TB
Seagate LP 2TB (Backup)
Water stuff:
CPU Block: EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
GPU Block: XSPC Razor R9 290/290X with matching backplate
Radiator: XSPC AX360 Black (3x 1850RPM Gentle Typhoons)
Pump: Laing D5 w/ Koolance COV-RP450 pump top and 120x60mm tube res
Fittings: Bitspower matte black 7/16ID 5/8OD
Tubing: XSPC high-flex tube - white

The new build should look something like this, changes bolded:

Quote
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2
CPU: 6700k
Motherboard: Asus Maximus Gene VIII
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200Mhz (2x8GB, black)
PSU: Kingwin Lazer 1000W
GPU: Asus R9 290X
Sound Card: Auzentech Forte
Storage:
2x Corsair Force GS 240GB in RAID0
Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 120GB for Photoshop and Lightroom
2x Hitachi 5k3000 2TB
Seagate LP 2TB (Backup)
Water stuff:
CPU Block: EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
GPU Block: XSPC Razor R9 290/290X with matching backplate
Radiator: XSPC AX360 Black (3x 1850RPM Gentle Typhoons) Maybe 6x if the case can fit it
Pump: Laing D5 w/ Koolance COV-RP450 pump top and 120x60mm tube res
Fittings: Darkside Hard Tube Straight Fitting 10/12mm - Black
Tubing: Bitspower Crystal Link (Acrylic) Tube 12mm OD - White
Liquid: Mayhems Pastel Extreme - White + Mayhems Purple Dye


I am going to need to do a complete strip down of all my WC parts, clean them, reassemble, and flush for a while, due to the aforementioned laziness. Don't want the coolant getting all nasty because I was too lazy to flush right.

For teasers:


3
Everything Hardware / Lian-Li, stop hogging all the drugs.
« on: January 18, 2016, 12:14:28 AM »

4
With my new parts comes a new mATX case eventually and this means I have to get rid of my AX360 and the fittings I use since nobody carries tubing for them anymore.

What I have been looking at new is what I'd be potentially looking for from you guys:
- Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 or XT45 (or comparable) dual 120mm rad
- 3/8ID 5/8"OD compression fittings, black prefereable

5
Help Wanted / New Build Suggestions
« on: October 24, 2015, 12:22:16 PM »
My brother is looking for a new build now that the 1090T rig I built him eons ago is getting long in the tooth. I try my best to not get too much into the specifics of new parts coming out because then I want to buy a new rig. I have a parts list built up right now that I suggested, but I wanna see what you guys would do with a $1500 budget.

- The purpose of it is gaming, and nothing but.
- No overclocking.
- He will be reusing the case (HAF932) and 500GB HDD. I'd like to get an SSD in there for him to throw games on, was thinking around 250GB and maybe M.2 if the motherboard supports it.
- He wants to buy Win10.
- He lives in Ontario, so that $1500 price point will need to account for 13% tax.

6
Repair Guides DIY / Sennheiser PC350 "Hero Mod"
« on: October 24, 2015, 12:09:01 PM »
I just thought I'd move this post over here from HWC because I've been looking around for replacements and remembered how important this mod was for anybody with PC350's.

The original Hero Mod post from Head-Fi can be found here.



Now, I didn't really even think of taking pictures until someone (Dalton?) in IRC mentioned it, so this is a little bit in. All my tools and whatnot, I didn't use the Dremel however. I've already removed the ear pads and the screws for the right side at this point. The pads just pop off, but take quite a bit of force.



Close up of the right ear's insides.



Here's what I used to make the holes, pretty simple stuff. Heat the nail up with my butane torch and shove it through. Beats the chance of drilling it and having plastic shards stuck inside the driver. (Nail is post-mod, 2mm in diameter)




First hole done. Went pretty easily through, until the head of the nail burned my thumb through the glove I was wearing.



And here's what I'm guessing is the equivalent of a "Warranty void if removed" sticker. Oh well, just jabbed the screwdriver through it.




And here is where the problem happened. Tried doing the left side and ended up having the nail cool down way quicker than the right side. Yeah, it was stuck pretty damn good. Just torched the part of the nail sticking out and yanked it. Either way it ended up pretty good. I had to go and do it a second time because the bass was noticeably heavier in the right ear. You just have to make sure they're both about the same size and in the same position.





And in the end I now have a headset with a nice punchy bass and clearer lows, instead of sounding like tin cans. Many people did 3+ holes, but the one hole seems to do quite a bit while not making it cause problems (Some people reported the bass lasting too long, for example).

7
Home Cooking / Pull Apart Pepperoni Garlic Knots
« on: July 19, 2015, 10:50:52 PM »
Reddit struck my fat tooth again. Had a family gathering and made these things, everybody loved them. Adapted from this recipe to be more cheesy and replaced the parsley with herbs with stronger flavour - http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2014/09/easy-pull-apart-pepperoni-garlic-bread-recipe.html

Pull Apart Pepperoni Garlic Knots

Ingredients:
-   2 tablespoons unsalted butter
-   2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
-   4 ounces pepperoni, cut into 1/4-inch squares
-   Pinch red pepper flakes
-   Pinch oregano
-   6 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
-   1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
-   2 tablespoons minced green onion
-   1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling
-   Flour for dusting
-   1 pound homemade or store-bought pizza dough
-   1/4 cup grated Romano cheese
-   1/4 cup grated mozzarella
-   Pizza sauce for serving

Quote
Pizza dough Ingredients/Instructions
o   1/4 cup warm water
o   1tsp sugar
o   1tbsp dry yeast
o   1lb bread flour
o   1tsp salt
o   1tsp garlic powder
o   2tbsp olive oil
o   1/2 cup cold water

1)   In a cup, combine the warm water, sugar, and dry yeast and mix lightly. Let sit for 5 minutes.
2)   Mix the bread flour, salt, and garlic powder together in a bowl.
3)   After the 5 minutes has passed, add the olive oil into the yeast/water cup, then dump into the dry ingredients. Make sure to scrape any stuck yeast out of the cup.
4)   Add the cold water to the large bowl with the rest of the ingredients. Mix the dough with your hands. (Grab the mixture and squeeze it with your hand until itís very elastic.)
5)   Move the ball of dough onto a lightly floured surface. Get a large bowl (approx. double size of dough) and coat it in olive oil. Move the dough ball into the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, then a towel, and let it sit for two hours at room temperature.
6)   Uncover the bowl and punch the dough down to get rid of air buildup. Let sit for another 30 minutes.
7)   Remove the dough from the bowl, split it in half, and place back into separate oiled bowls. Let the dough proof overnight in the fridge.

Instructions

1)   Heat butter and oil in a 10-inch cast iron skillet over medium heat until butter melts and foaming subsides. Add pepperoni and cook, stirring, until pepperoni begins to crisp, about 2 minutes. Add pepper flakes, oregano, and garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add basil and green onion and stir to combine. Transfer mixture to a large bowl and stir in Parmesan cheese. Do not wipe out skillet.
2)   On a lightly floured surface, divide dough into two even pieces. Working one piece at a time, roll or stretch into an oblong about 8 inches long and 4 inches wide. With a bench scraper or knife, cut crosswise into 12 strips. Repeat with other half of dough.
3)   Transfer the strips into the bowl with pepperoni/garlic mixture, a few at a time. Toss and fold with your hands until each strip is well coated in the mixture. Remove the strips and tie into knots. Transfer the knots to the skillet in a single layer. Dump remaining mixture on top of the knots, drizzle with more olive oil, cover tightly with plastic, and set aside until doubled in size, about 4 hours. Alternatively, refrigerate until doubled in size, 12 to 16 hours.
4)   When ready to bake, preheat oven to 425įF and adjust oven rack to center position. Unwrap garlic knots. Sprinkle with romano and mozzarella cheese. Transfer to oven and bake until golden brown and crisp, 25 to 30 minutes.
5)   Remove from oven and sprinkle lightly with more Parmesan. Serve right away with warmed sauce on the side.

8
Repair Guides DIY / Asus RT-N16 Capacitor Replacement Guide
« on: July 19, 2015, 08:39:51 PM »
The RT-N16 is an awesome router, but Asus sadly threw in a terrible cap that likes to blow. Symptoms of this popped cap are complete lack of power or only being able to turn on for a few seconds and shutting down.

What you will need for this repair:
- 16V 680uf capacitor (I went with a Panasonic EEU-FR1C681L)
- Soldering iron that can reach 400C. (Lead free solder and a thick ground plane make this a necessity)
- Solder sucking pump
- Solder (I used 60/40 solder since I do not have lead free)
- Philips #2 screwdriver
- Small pliers, wrench, or really strong fingers

Optional:
- Isopropyl alcohol
- Desoldering brain

As with anything DIY like this, all repairs are done at your own risk. Real Hardware Reviews takes no responsibility for any damage to your device, damage to yourself, Lochness monsters attacks, or spontaneous combustion of your gerbil.

1. Start off by disconnecting all cables from the router and flipping it over. There will be four rubber feet that will need to be peeled off. Under each foot will be a screw that needs to be removed. The top of the router will now freely come off.





2. Stare angrily at the leaky cap that is now staring you down.




3. Remove the nuts that hold the antenna mounts in using pliers, wrench, etc. Since the wires running from the PCB to the antenna mounts are glued to the board, this is a lot safer that trying to pry the glue off and potentially damage the small connectors.





4. Remove the two screws holding the PCB to the case. (I don't have pictures of this part, they're really easy to find though)

5. Desolder the capacitor from the board. Make note of the polarity as you will need to remember it for later. Asus likes to confuse you by reversing the PCB markings from what you'd expect, as the negative terminal sits on the side that is not marked in white.



6. Clean up the holes with your solder sucker. If you do have desoldering braid and isopropyl alcohol, clean up the PCB with the braid and then wipe both the top and bottom with isopropyl to ensure it is super clean.

7. Solder your new capacitor in. Ensure polarity is correct!



8. Test it and hope for the best! If everything went well then reassemble the router. If not, get that cap out and try again.

Bonus tip

If you are like me an don't like blinding LEDs, you may as well do something while the router is already apart. Flip the top cover over and you will see a row of acrylic tubes that router the LEDs' lights to the front  of the router case. Depending on how much you want to dim the lights, there are a few options.

- Sand the ends of the tubes with rough sandpaper. This will stop a bit of light from making it through and is the method I chose.
- Write over the ends with black marker. This will block most light but let a little bit pass through.
- Cover the ends with electrical tape. This completely blocks all light from passing.


9
Buying Selling and Trading / [FS] BNIB EVGA SuperNova 850 G2
« on: July 01, 2015, 12:35:53 PM »
$160 - EVGA SuperNova 850 G2 - BNIB with extra set of modular cables

Received as an RMA replacement from EVGA and I will include a spare set of modular cables from my old unit.

I'll be completely honest, I had two of these things die on me within a year and Soullessone also has had bad luck. Everybody else in the world seems to love them however and have wicked reviews.  :-\


10
Games / Kingdom Hearts 3
« on: June 17, 2015, 05:15:01 PM »


All aboard the hype train! This game is pretty much the only reason I own a PS4, it better stop taking forever to come out.  >:(




11
Just got this in an email from Ubisoft. Diminished by bugs? Ya friggin think? More like demolished and unplayable. We'll see if you can get the game working enough for me to even play the main part, let alone the free DLC.

Quote
Dear user,

The launch of Assassin's Creed Unity was a highly-anticipated moment for me and for our development teams around the world who dedicated a tremendous amount of energy, passion and skill to the game's creation. For us, it was the culmination of years of work on new technologies, the development of multiple innovations -- including an all-new game engine -- and an evolution of the Assassin's Creed franchise's core pillars. More importantly, we know that it was a highly-anticipated moment for many of you as well, as you looked forward to taking part in the first truly next generation Assassin's Creed game.

Unfortunately, at launch, the overall quality of the game was diminished by bugs and unexpected technical issues. I want to sincerely apologize on behalf of Ubisoft and the entire Assassin's Creed team. These problems took away from your enjoyment of the game, and kept many of you from experiencing the game at its fullest potential.

We've been working hard to fix the problems players are reporting, and the patches we have released so far have resolved many of them. Today, we're releasing our third patch, which fixes a variety of specific issues related to the game's stability and performance, matchmaking and connectivity, gameplay and menus. You can find the release notes on that patch HERE.- http://assassinscreed.ubi.com/en-GB/news/news_detail.aspx?c=tcm:154-186297-16&ct=tcm:148-76770-32

To show our appreciation for your continued support, we're making the upcoming Assassin's Creed Unity Dead Kings DLC free for everyone. For Season Pass holders, we will also offer the choice of one additional game from a selection of Ubisoft titles for free. More details on the offer for Season Pass holders can be found HERE. - http://assassinscreed.ubi.com/en-GB/news/news_detail.aspx?c=tcm:154-186650-16&ct=tcm:148-76770-32

In addition to the latest patch and this offer, we are committed to delivering further fixes for other issues you've raised. In the meantime, please keep your feedback coming Ė it has been both humbling and incredibly helpful as we continue working hard to improve the overall quality of the game. We are hopeful that with these forthcoming updates, everyone will be able to truly enjoy their Assassin's Creed Unity experience.

We will continue striving to make Assassin's Creed one of the most ambitious and innovative franchises on the market, and we thank you for your continued loyalty and support.

Sincerely,
Yannis Mallat
CEO, Ubisoft Montreal & Toronto

12
Buying Selling and Trading / [WTB] D5 Pump Res Top
« on: November 18, 2014, 12:28:33 PM »
So two things:
A) I think EK's new circle design is stupid.
B) Said circle design is bloody friggin expensive from Dazmode.

With that said, I would like to find a res pump top for my D5 pump (MCP655). Not particularly a fan of the XSPC one that bolts to the side of it either, but as a last resort I'd take it. Hoping for something bigger than the 100 size, 140 maybe?

I can pay by EMT, or PayPal if it's a reputable member.

13
Buying Selling and Trading / [FS] Sandisk Ultra 64GB MicroSDXC
« on: November 08, 2014, 10:37:43 PM »
Quote
Sale Rules:
1) Shipping is NOT included unless specified. Standard shipping method is Canada Post Expedited unless asked otherwise. $100 insurance is included by default with this method.
2) Payment by EMT, or cash in person. Different payment methods will only be discussed with members with lots of previous background, on a case-by-case basis.
3) Everything is sold AS-IS. Condition is listed for every item and tested before being posted to this thread. If you want more pictures and/or imformation before buying, ask!

$40 - Sandisk Ultra 64GB MicroSDXC

Just received this from Sandisk as an RMA. I bought a new Lexar card in the meantime since I couldn't be without music on my phone for 3 weeks. Brand new, this is the newest version of the card, meaning no "this card has been ejected unexpectedly" bug that plagued the first gen in many Android devices, namely the S3. I will ship this card free through lettermail, but there is no tracking or insurance. Tracking will bump the cost up about $10 to most places.


14
Everything Off Topic / Pant hemming in Calgary
« on: September 13, 2014, 05:03:24 PM »
I've got a wedding to attend next Saturday, and of course my clothes got held up at customs. I've got them now but I basically need a quick hem job done by Thursday, maybe Friday at the latest. The catch is this is really the first pair of nice pants I've bought and I'd like to avoid having em hacked up with a bad job.

Any suggestions? NW would be preferred, but I'll be in the SW at the end of this week so I can probably handle that too.

15
Repair Guides DIY / HTC One M7 Microphone/USB Port Replacement
« on: July 16, 2014, 08:09:22 PM »
I received a phone from my friend that took a dip into a lake and the mic decided it wanted to drink some water. Everything else seems to work except for the microphone, which outputs absolutely nothing but static now. Here's what to do (and what not to do) to crack open your HTC One M7 and replace the PCB that they reside on.

1) Have a broken phone. (duh) Remove your SIM card and SIM card holder. Power down your phone.


2) Gather tools:

- Patience
- Microwavable heating pad (the ones with balls are best for this) to help release the glue
- Cloth to protect the screen when using the above and when screen is face down
- Large flat hobby knife blade or spudger
- Screwdrivers. I used J000 for all of the screws here, PH000 would be applicable as well if you have one. My ifixit set is probably the best I've ever owned so I'd recommend that if you need a set.
- Replacement USB/mic assembly
- MOAR PATIENCE






3) Microwave your heat pad. I personally microwaved mine for a minute and a half to get it hot enough that it had a noticeable effect on the glue. Place your phone screen up onto the pad. Fold up your cloth so that it protects the screen from direct heat, then wrap the heat pad tightly around the phone. You want to let this sit for a few minutes so the glue starts to get sticky again.




4) Unwrap your package of melty phone goodness, being careful of the fact that it will be pretty damn hot. Grab your hobby blade and start forcing your way inside the edges of the phone. You will need to force it in parallel to the screen and then wiggle your way vertically down until you push through the glue. Then slightly lift up and you should hear stuff starting to come loose. I found the easiest way to start was along the top, going clockwise from power button down. Once I had three sides (top, right, bottom) separated the heat pad was reheated, phone put in for a minute, and then pulled the rest of the phone away from the left side of the rear case gently.




5) Lay your phone down on your cloth. Remove the screws within the red box. The right screw is longest, middle are both the same length, and the left is silver. Easy peasy. You will also pull the little plate beneath the screws.




6) Remove the cable running to the mainboard; it will be hidden under a piece of black tape. The black clip pivots upwards and will let go of the cable; be careful due to its fragility.  Also remove the cable running from the bottom speaker to the board holding the USB/mic. This connector is very very fragile. You will have to rock it out slowly using the tabs on the sides and your hobby blade (or whatever small and pointy thing works)






7) At this point the board is free of anything holding it down. You should be able to wiggle it out at this point if you push upwards on the mainboard slightly. Once it's out, shove the new part in and test before you reassemble. If everything is good then follow the steps in reverse to get it back together. The rear casing will snap right back on, but you should probably grab your heat pad again to get everything melty again once it's back together.

This is a bonus picture in full resolution (16MP) as a reference if you accidentally knock a cable off and can't find the right connector. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5579100/HTC%20One%20M7/Bonus.jpg

Pages: [1] 2
SimplePortal 2.3.6 © 2008-2014, SimplePortal