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Topics - Arinoth

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I have a used unknown model Thermaltake case that I am hoping to transition to be my new home server case as the current case I am using, the Shinobi XL, will be re-purposed as my gaming case once again when my EATX motherboard arrives from the Intel RE Deal.

The problem with the Thermaltake case is that there are no hard drive sleds left in it, I found it 'dumpster diving' aka university students moving out and had the case near the apartment garbage. The hard drive bays themselves are still there, but as they are larger than just a standard 3.5 " Hard Drive, I can't just put them in there. I was hoping someone may have some retail or DIY solutions they could share so I don't have to go out and either buy another EATX case or an ATX case that has 6+ 3.5 " HDD bays.

Everything Hardware / Replacement to G15 Gen2
« on: April 10, 2017, 07:18:27 AM »
As the title states, I am looking to replace my Logitech G15 Gen 2 keyboard that I've had over 7+ years to something a bit more modern and 'smaller'. I say smaller as I do not use any of the macro keys on the G15, my G602 mouse handles anything I need for that. I honestly don't care if it has an LCD screen or LED lighting, mainly something that'll last as long or longer then the G15.

I am stating to run out of tests to perform to troubleshoot specifically what could be wrong with my system. My computer will 'mostly' freeze on a black screen while I am playing a video game. Does not matter the game, Tales from the Borderlands, Batman the Telltale Series, Starcraft II, etc. I say 'mostly' freeze as my G15 will still report back status fed to it from MSI Afterburner and whatever game I am playing the audio will keep playing. Aside from that the computer itself is non-responsive and stays as a black screen until I reboot it. It will also happen at random, sometimes within 5 minutes of gaming, sometimes not for hours.
Here are the specs:
Processor Intel i7 4930k (Stock, Turbo boost enabled)
Motherboard MSI X79MA-GD45 (Bios is V3.8 )
Memory G.SKILL TridentX F3-2400C10Q-16GTX 16GB 4X4GB DDR3-2400
Storage Crucial MX200 1TB SSD
Video Card PNY GTX 980 XLR8 Pro OC (run at stock but with a more aggressive fan profile)
Power Supply - Corsair AX860 860W (I just installed it yesterday brand new to replace an aging Corsair 750W PSU)
Display Monitor Samsung LS27A850DS 27IN 2560 x 1440

Tests I have tried:
Memtes86 - Passed on all 4 passes
Prime95 - No issues here, temperatures do not exceed 70C
Furmark Burntest - Temperatures do not exceed 70C

I'm not sure what other tests to try, this didn't start 'happening' until after one of the larger Windows 10 updates late in fall 2016. I have even performed a fresh install of a Windows 10 ISO from Microsoft and still will cause this issue.

Electronics / DIY Christmas Tree
« on: December 04, 2016, 12:11:30 PM »

Fiancee wanted a Christmas Tree, I wanted a project of my own, this is the result of the two.

Every single RGB LED (or light you see there) randomly generates a colour every second. As well as this, it randomly generates which RGB LED will be changed. I did this as I really hate those Christmas Trees that either have a fixed pattern in which they change the order of the lights, or the colours that they cycle through. I did do one with 7 colours including clear though the fiancee preferred this version instead.

I will have a link below to the full Youtube clip.

This was not particularly easy to take a picture of, or video thank to how bright these RGB LEDs are.

A little bit better, but still rather bright.

The animated version is the first 'image'.

Can't really see much of the electronics on the backend with it all light up, not to worry I have some pictures of it all off.

Here's the rear view of the Christmas Tree animated, not as bright, a lot easier to see.

Here's what it looks like when it is off.

Here's a closer picture of what the Christmas Tree looks like when it is off. I bought the 'Tree' part from WalMart on clearance just after Christmas. It had plain white LEDs, with different sort of LED Holders.

It took a while to figure out how I was going to properly mount my RGB LEDs into this tree as the holes that the default product used were a lot larger.

The LED holder itself is from eBay, you can find it if you look up "50 Pcs 5mm Silver Chrome Metal LED Bezel Plastic Holder". To ensure that the RGB LEDs did not move I put a small amount of clear tape on it so it would provide a snug fit into the holder.

As it turns out the pre-drilled holes were still too big for the LED holder to properly stay in place. To solve this problem I went to the hardware store and bought 42 W14 washers. Placing one on each side, then using the nut that came with the LED holder I was able to securely mount them in there.

Here we can see the second washer as well as the LED Holder's nut on the back of each of the LED Holders. I had to drill/cut a hole to fit the Arduino Uno's USB-B cable. Only reason I used an Arduino Uno instead of say a Micro was I already own several of them.

The majority of the wiring you see is what is called wire wrap wire. It is a rather high gauge wire that does not require any soldering. I did not want to solder wires in case a RGB LED shorted out or if I want to replace them more easily. This did mean that I needed to use a terminal block as the amperage that most wire wrap wires are rated for are rather low. Each set of 5 (or 6) is tied to one wire that connected to the potentiometer (the blue thing dangling). The Potentiometer allows me to adjust the voltage going to the RGB LEDs to make them slightly less brighter.

The RGB LEDs that I used can be found on eBay if you search "5MM 4PIN RGB RED BLUE GREEN COMMON ANODE/CATHODE LED LIGHTS DIODE". In my case I bought the common Anode, I should have bought common Cathode to make my programming life a little easier, but either can work.

Another thing I would probably do is buy RGB LEDs that have control circuits already in them as the Arduinos only have limited PWM lines, meaning I had to use PWM Drivers to control all 63 PWM lines to the RGB LEDs. You get this number by realizing each RGB LED has 3 control lines each, one for Red, one for Green, and one for Blue. Times this by the total number of RGB LEDs, 21, and it gets 63 control lines required.

The PWM Driver modules that I bought can be found on eBay if you search "16 Channel 12-bit PWM/Servo Drive module." I was fortunate that there is already a library by Adafruit to control this, as these PWM Drivers are used by PCA9685. This PWM Drivers can also be daisy chained so that only 2 control lines are required to control quite a few of them. All you have to do is solder an 'address' on them to do so.

Tried my best to keep most the wiring rather neat, not the easiest thing to do but I think it turned out quite well.

Here is the higher resolution/full 21 second video of the Christmas Tree in action:

Parts List:
Arduino Uno
21 Common Anode RGB LEDs
21 LED Holders
42 W14 Washers
4 16 Channel PWM Drivers
1 10k Ohm Potentiometer
1 Terminal Block
4 Daisy Chain Cables.
1 Clearance Walmart Christmas Tree

If you have any questions, comments, etc, please let me know below or in a PM and I'll try to answer them. Additionally, if there is a large demand for the code I will comment it and provide a link to it.

Games / Bioshock 1 Remastered
« on: September 20, 2016, 06:10:32 AM »
I was hearing a lot of positive things about Bioshock 1 Remastered and decided to give it a try. Boy was that ever a disappointment. Well not a disappointment more a let down.

Other than the graphics, which do look newer, nothing else was seemingly touched. This could be a good thing for purists, it's not so much for a lot of other people. Auto-aim is turned on by default, I was wondering why (other than console port) so I turned it off. Holy hell is it a lot more difficult trying to hit an enemy with a vigor (think magic spell) without it. Z is the default button for zoom, yes you can change the keybinding to whatever you want, just proof that they never touched the controls or interfaces to modernize them. I REALLY wanted to replay this game (well play the Remastered version of it for the first time). Unfortunately I probably won't want to deal with the still clunky control or be forced to play the game with auto aim on and the joys of very little ammo/money (at least in the very beginning).

Everything Hardware / Home Server Solution Help!
« on: July 29, 2016, 12:27:46 PM »
I am looking to upgrade or enhance how my home server is setup to maximum performance along with switching to the best RAID configuration based on my needs and what I have

The uses of the home server:
Backup storage for important documents or pictures (that are backed up to a small flash drive additionally)
TV Shows and Movies (storage and streaming to PCs or to Kodi and Xbone).
General storage for music and software (such as steam games backups).

Software it runs to do some of this
Couch Potato
Emby (mainly to keep my media library of what's been watched synced)

I currently have the following hardware setup

**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor]
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte GA-H61M-USB3-B3 Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard]
**Memory** | [Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory]
**Storage** | [Intel 530 Series 180GB 2.5" Solid State Drive]
**Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive]
**Storage** | [Western Digital Red 6TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive]
**Storage** | [Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive]
**Storage** | [Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive]
**Case** | [BitFenix Shinobi XL (Black) ATX Full Tower Case]
**Power Supply** | [Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply]
** Raid Card** | [Intel RAID Controller Card SATA/SAS PCI-Ex8 SASUC8I]

The 2TB hard drive is connected to the motherboard through an older SASUC8I that last I looked cannot support drivers larger then 2-3TB.

Additionally, I am using Windows 2016 Server as the operating system on the ssd, running a non-redundant Storage Pool across the 4 storage drives (2TB, 2 4TB, and 1 6TB).

I've currently received 2 additional 4TB hard drives from GaK_45, prompting this thread and the real question of what best hardware or software raid should I configure to utilize the most drives as I have while actually having redundancy (for once).

Additionally wondering how easy or difficult it is to set up my own cloud storage so I (or my parents) can remotely access items from my sever.

If I missed anything or there are additional questions don't hesitate to ask and I'll try to answer them to the best of my abilities.

Everything Software(Non Games) / Home Server Solution
« on: May 16, 2016, 12:55:49 PM »
I am trying to determine how best to setup my home server. I just recently had to nuke my Windows 10 setup as a piece of software I updated that I run on my server causes the system to become unresponsive at times when it is downloading. I've tried reverting to older version but I believe it's screwed with some registries in windows.

I picked up Windows Server 2016 with the thoughts of using it but I keep getting an error when trying to install 3.5 .Net Framework which DriveBender requires in order to install/run.

What I have right now if Win10 was working:
Sonarr to manage my tv collection and gather additional media information
Couch Potato to manage my movies collection and gather additional media information.
X software that's being faulty
DriveBender which runs a drive pool for me so everything, those programs and external users (Kodi and just regular drive storage) sees it as one drive. Currently this drive pool hosts 1 2TB, 2 4TB and 1 6TB HDDs.

Now, should I just go back to a fresh Win10 install and hope X software will work this time or try a different OS. Is a drive pool my best option still as I don't care about HDD redundancy, I haven't liked raids as if RAID 0 fails everything is gone, not just the single drive that died. Everything I've listed will also run on Linux except for DriveBender, is there a similar drive pool out there that's fairly straight forward that will perform load balancing among drives. Hell should I even be load balancing anyways, Linux friend of mine thinks I should just go to Linux and mount the separate drives, store high importance items on a low access drive and everything else on the higher access/write drives.

Games / Dawn of War III
« on: May 03, 2016, 09:27:55 AM »
Announcement Trailer:

Games / Co-op Game suggestsions
« on: April 13, 2016, 05:00:07 PM »
The fiancee and I are starting to get a wee bit bored of Diablo 3 and were thinking about hopping onto a 'new' game soon. The sort of games we've played together include SWTOR (she doesn't want to go back to that), Command & Conquer 3, Age of Empires 3, Borderlands 1 and 2, Diablo 3, Torchlight 2, and probably a few more I'm forgetting. I listed the games in order to help people get a feel that we do enjoy comp-stomping RTSes, RPGs (be it FPS or mass clicking), etc.

Buying Selling and Trading / [WTB] LGA1155 Intel i Processor
« on: April 13, 2016, 08:03:16 AM »
I am looking for something more powerful then what my server is currently running a Pentium G2030. Anything that is an Intel i Processor would work for me as my motherboard supports Sandy and Ivy Bridge 1155.

Not looking to spend a lot, but please PM me with what you have and what you're asking for.

Everything Off Topic / Uptime Funk (Uptown Funk IT Parody)
« on: March 22, 2016, 02:45:04 PM »

Games / Knights of the Old Republic Remake
« on: February 28, 2016, 08:08:41 PM »
The 2003 Knights of the Old Republic is getting a fan-remake using the Unreal 4 Engine.
Here's the link, it'll be free as long as you own the original:

Everything Hardware / Two motherboard questions involving the Asus H81T
« on: February 19, 2016, 11:02:55 AM »
Now that more parts have arrived from eBay again I'm back on track with my Sega Genesis Mark II build. This has lead to me come up with two questions that I was hoping some people may have answers to or point me in the right direction.

1) Where or how to enable always on USB Port?
I know at some point motherboard companies started to introduce charging ports on motherboards several years ago, but since then it seems to have dropped off entirely. I know some motherboards have EUP, I'm just not sure exactly how to enable this specifically for ASUS or if it's usually a specific internal or external usb port.
Can I use the AI Charger suite Asus has to do this too? I need a 5V constant voltage source (even when the pc is off but plugged into a power outlet) and I'd like to avoid having a second power adapter coming out of the case.

2) Power specs for the motherboard LED/Power Button?
For the power LED I've measured it to be 5.1V I just was wondering if anyone knew what sort of current draw it'll supply. I will most likely use a voltage divider circuit to drop the voltage down below 5V, in which that'll properly protect my digital input port.
This goes also in part with the power button supply to. If anyone knows typically want current draw it can supply, I could use that as my arduino power source as I plan to relay the on/off power connection duty to the arduino through some circuitry.

I recently had to nuke and pave my OS driver for my home server as some form of Windows updates over time had been making it less and less usable to the point where it was easier to start fresh then try to fix things when only some aspects of Windows will work.

The 'new' OS drive is my older Intel 180GB SSD that I know works without any issues. I installed Win10 on it two nights ago and last night I finally had time to config the system. I never looked at the drivers before I installed DriveBender to re-pool my software raid, so that may be the original culprit. After this was done I had almost all my drives back in my raid, my 3 2TB and 1 6TB, yet my 4TB seems to not be found by DriveBender and CERTAIN software in Windows.

The BIOS and Device Manager both show that the 4TB HDD exists, the model, etc, however Disk Manager and Explorer do not show the drive. I have tried booting with just the 4TB and my OS drive yet DM and Explorer never display it. I know the 4TB was working prior, with great health as DriveBender periodically does SMART checks and alerts me of any drive issues. I was wondering if anyone has ever had a good working drive not be properly recognized by Windows in some aspect, but in others show up just fine. I'm hoping for some solutions that avoids me from nuke and paving the OS drive, if I have to do it I have no issues as it did not take long last time.

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