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LPfan4ever last won the day on December 4 2019

LPfan4ever had the most liked content!

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  1. In reality, there's very little reason to use PETG over acrylic. No fluid limitations with acrylic IIRC.
  2. John just admitted my Focus is fast. Time to screenshot that for later. This capacity seems odd for such a potentially quick drive with all the bells and whistles, but at least the price premium isn't too bad. I can't wait for tiny fans on these things to keep everything cool.
  3. The only thing to make sure is if the white is in a cylindrical grey container, that is Extreme and not good for PETG. Otherwise I'm not familiar with packaging changes with the rest. You could always send Mayhems an email to confirm before you buy.
  4. Another thing to think about is if you're mostly gaming online. I load super fast with NVMe, but often that just means I'm waiting for the consoles (Rocket League) and/or the rest of the players (CSGO, RS2:V) to load. SATA is plenty fast in that regard.
  5. Basically your options are the regular Mayhems Pastel (extreme is not PETG-friendly), EK CryoFuel, or IceDragon. I believe Mayhems Pastel White is your best bet, but in any case you REALLY need to clean the shit out of your loop. Most of the gunk you end up having clog your blocks is contaminants left over from manufacturing and whatnot.
  6. I feel like adding a row to the charts for cache yes/no would be good info, as that seems to be a huge factor for differentiating these lower cost drives. Typically I'd assume a buyer of this kind of drive is going to have a single drive and might run into the speed concerns without the cache. Nonetheless looks like a decent option for a second game drive like GaK said.
  7. I got a nice restaurant dinner. At that point my hobbies had outgrown what my parents could afford and I can't be mad about a nice night out with family.
  8. The RT-N16 is an awesome router, but Asus sadly threw in a terrible cap that likes to blow. Symptoms of this popped cap are complete lack of power or only being able to turn on for a few seconds and shutting down. What you will need for this repair:- 16V 680uf capacitor (I went with a Panasonic EEU-FR1C681L)- Soldering iron that can reach 400C. (Lead free solder and a thick ground plane make this a necessity)- Solder sucking pump- Solder (I used 60/40 solder since I do not have lead free)- Philips #2 screwdriver- Small pliers, wrench, or really strong fingers Optional:- Isopropyl alcohol- Desoldering braid As with anything DIY like this, all repairs are done at your own risk. Real Hardware Reviews takes no responsibility for any damage to your device, damage to yourself, Lochness monsters attacks, or spontaneous combustion of your gerbil. 1. Start off by disconnecting all cables from the router and flipping it over. There will be four rubber feet that will need to be peeled off. Under each foot will be a screw that needs to be removed. The top of the router will now freely come off. 2. Stare angrily at the leaky cap that is now staring you down. 3. Remove the nuts that hold the antenna mounts in using pliers, wrench, etc. Since the wires running from the PCB to the antenna mounts are glued to the board, this is a lot safer that trying to pry the glue off and potentially damage the small connectors. 4. Remove the two screws holding the PCB to the case. (I don't have pictures of this part, they're really easy to find though) 5. Desolder the capacitor from the board. Make note of the polarity as you will need to remember it for later. Asus likes to confuse you by reversing the PCB markings from what you'd expect, as the negative terminal sits on the side that is not marked in white. 6. Clean up the holes with your solder sucker. If you do have desoldering braid and isopropyl alcohol, clean up the PCB with the braid and then wipe both the top and bottom with isopropyl to ensure it is super clean. 7. Solder your new capacitor in. Ensure polarity is correct! 8. Test it and hope for the best! If everything went well then reassemble the router. If not, get that cap out and try again. Bonus tip If you are like me an don't like blinding LEDs, you may as well do something while the router is already apart. Flip the top cover over and you will see a row of acrylic tubes that router the LEDs' lights to the front of the router case. Depending on how much you want to dim the lights, there are a few options. Sand the ends of the tubes with rough sandpaper. This will stop a bit of light from making it through and is the method I chose. Write over the ends with black marker. This will block most light but let a little bit pass through. Cover the ends with electrical tape. This completely blocks all light from passing.
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