LPfan4ever

I hear they have stuff with gems on it if you wanna be classy too.

buttplugs-R-us JK, I agree with Bond. Amazon is a pretty safe bet for most anything someone wants. Gotta find a sponsor like MemEx or Mike's if we're gonna go for more specific PC related gift cards, gotta give them big $$ cards.

In reality, there's very little reason to use PETG over acrylic. No fluid limitations with acrylic IIRC.

John just admitted my Focus is fast. Time to screenshot that for later. This capacity seems odd for such a potentially quick drive with all the bells and whistles, but at least the price premium isn't too bad. I can't wait for tiny fans on these things to keep everything cool.

The only thing to make sure is if the white is in a cylindrical grey container, that is Extreme and not good for PETG. Otherwise I'm not familiar with packaging changes with the rest. You could always send Mayhems an email to confirm before you buy.

Another thing to think about is if you're mostly gaming online. I load super fast with NVMe, but often that just means I'm waiting for the consoles (Rocket League) and/or the rest of the players (CSGO, RS2:V) to load. SATA is plenty fast in that regard.

Basically your options are the regular Mayhems Pastel (extreme is not PETG-friendly), EK CryoFuel, or IceDragon. I believe Mayhems Pastel White is your best bet, but in any case you REALLY need to clean the shit out of your loop. Most of the gunk you end up having clog your blocks is contaminants left over from manufacturing and whatnot.

I feel like adding a row to the charts for cache yes/no would be good info, as that seems to be a huge factor for differentiating these lower cost drives. Typically I'd assume a buyer of this kind of drive is going to have a single drive and might run into the speed concerns without the cache. Nonetheless looks like a decent option for a second game drive like GaK said.

I'll let Calgary Transit know they need to reduce prices so I can buy silly toys.

Christ that is a lot of storage and speed and wallet destruction.

I got a nice restaurant dinner. At that point my hobbies had outgrown what my parents could afford and I can't be mad about a nice night out with family.

I just thought I'd move this post over here from HWC because I've been looking around for replacements and remembered how important this mod was for anybody with PC350's. The original Hero Mod post from Head-Fi can be found here. Now, I didn't really even think of taking pictures until someone (Dalton?) in IRC mentioned it, so this is a little bit in. All my tools and whatnot, I didn't use the Dremel however. I've already removed the ear pads and the screws for the right side at this point. The pads just pop off, but take quite a bit of force. Close up of the right ear's insides. Here's what I used to make the holes, pretty simple stuff. Heat the nail up with my butane torch and shove it through. Beats the chance of drilling it and having plastic shards stuck inside the driver. (Nail is post-mod, 2mm in diameter) First hole done. Went pretty easily through, until the head of the nail burned my thumb through the glove I was wearing. And here's what I'm guessing is the equivalent of a "Warranty void if removed" sticker. Oh well, just jabbed the screwdriver through it. And here is where the problem happened. Tried doing the left side and ended up having the nail cool down way quicker than the right side. Yeah, it was stuck pretty damn good. Just torched the part of the nail sticking out and yanked it. Either way it ended up pretty good. I had to go and do it a second time because the bass was noticeably heavier in the right ear. You just have to make sure they're both about the same size and in the same position. And in the end I now have a headset with a nice punchy bass and clearer lows, instead of sounding like tin cans. Many people did 3+ holes, but the one hole seems to do quite a bit while not making it cause problems (Some people reported the bass lasting too long, for example).

The RT-N16 is an awesome router, but Asus sadly threw in a terrible cap that likes to blow. Symptoms of this popped cap are complete lack of power or only being able to turn on for a few seconds and shutting down. What you will need for this repair:- 16V 680uf capacitor (I went with a Panasonic EEU-FR1C681L)- Soldering iron that can reach 400C. (Lead free solder and a thick ground plane make this a necessity)- Solder sucking pump- Solder (I used 60/40 solder since I do not have lead free)- Philips #2 screwdriver- Small pliers, wrench, or really strong fingers Optional:- Isopropyl alcohol- Desoldering braid As with anything DIY like this, all repairs are done at your own risk. Real Hardware Reviews takes no responsibility for any damage to your device, damage to yourself, Lochness monsters attacks, or spontaneous combustion of your gerbil. 1. Start off by disconnecting all cables from the router and flipping it over. There will be four rubber feet that will need to be peeled off. Under each foot will be a screw that needs to be removed. The top of the router will now freely come off. 2. Stare angrily at the leaky cap that is now staring you down. 3. Remove the nuts that hold the antenna mounts in using pliers, wrench, etc. Since the wires running from the PCB to the antenna mounts are glued to the board, this is a lot safer that trying to pry the glue off and potentially damage the small connectors. 4. Remove the two screws holding the PCB to the case. (I don't have pictures of this part, they're really easy to find though) 5. Desolder the capacitor from the board. Make note of the polarity as you will need to remember it for later. Asus likes to confuse you by reversing the PCB markings from what you'd expect, as the negative terminal sits on the side that is not marked in white. 6. Clean up the holes with your solder sucker. If you do have desoldering braid and isopropyl alcohol, clean up the PCB with the braid and then wipe both the top and bottom with isopropyl to ensure it is super clean. 7. Solder your new capacitor in. Ensure polarity is correct! 8. Test it and hope for the best! If everything went well then reassemble the router. If not, get that cap out and try again. Bonus tip If you are like me an don't like blinding LEDs, you may as well do something while the router is already apart. Flip the top cover over and you will see a row of acrylic tubes that router the LEDs' lights to the front of the router case. Depending on how much you want to dim the lights, there are a few options. Sand the ends of the tubes with rough sandpaper. This will stop a bit of light from making it through and is the method I chose. Write over the ends with black marker. This will block most light but let a little bit pass through. Cover the ends with electrical tape. This completely blocks all light from passing.